Rhys Vineyards, Syrah Horseshoe Vineyard, 2014 winback Enric Soler is one of

Enric Soler is one of Spain's most quietly important winemakers — a former Spanish Sommelier Champion (1997) who walked away from a Barcelona tasting-room career in 2004 to take over his grandfather's tiny inheritance of old Xarel-lo vines in Penedes

different family branch — makes Barolo in the modernist-traditional middle: real structure

and this old-vine Carignan swings for the fences too

Von Winning is one of the Pfalz's finest estates

with aromas of cinnamon

Rhys Vineyards, Syrah Horseshoe Vineyard, 2014 winback Enric Soler is one ofRhys made its name chasing Burgundian elegance through mountain farming, but the Horseshoe Syrah shows the estate's Northern Rhone side, and it is a sleeper. From the high, protected Horseshoe vineyard near the spine of the Santa Cruz Mountains, this is a cool climate Syrah grown on the same stony, low yield terroir as the estate Pinots, built for savory aromatics and serious aging rather than power. This 2014 has time on it but is the kind of bottle